Repairing 2001-2007 Dodge Caravan Brake Pads and Rotors

around the piston as you push. Be alert to signs of fatigue. 2001-2007 Dodge Caravan Repair Pads and rotors й 2010 iFixit – CC BY-NC-SA … ….

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  • Step 1 – Brake Pads and Rotors
    It\’s a good idea to leave some weight on the tire as you start loosening the lug nuts; if they\’re tight, the car itself is holding the tire still for you. …
  • Step 2
    After jacking up the car PLACE JACK STAND(S) under the car for safety, THEN take off the wheel. Take a 13/16\’ socket and take off the bolt holding the entire caliper assembly to the car. ….
  • Step 3
    Don\’t have your work light RIGHT up against the flimsy plastic of the splash- shroud. I was back and forth from the house for tools. Came out to a burning smell. VERY funny. When THIS is the worst thing that happens in your automotive project, you\’re doing OK. A little souvenir from the incident. And a little evidence left on the car.
  • Step 4
    This is the caliper freed from the car and supported. One should take off the brake fluid resevoir cap, since later we\’ll be pushing old pads back, and raising the overall level. The cap itself says to clean it first. If the fluid has been …
  • Step 5
    The new pads are thicker than the old, so the piston will have to be pushed back. Leave the old pad in place for now since the piston is hollow. Use the C-clamp to gently push the piston back. Look for rubbery seals around the piston as you push back. Watch for any signs of strain.
  • Step 6
    The old pads now come out by hand. Some jiggling may be necessary, but in my application, I didn\’t even have to tap them with anything. The pads sit passively in little channels, and come out towards the inside. There should be little clips remaining. The new pads are thicker than the old, obviously.
  • Step 7
    The pads ride in a carrier that\’s free to move in and out. These two shots show fully IN, and fully OUT. We will later have to grease these slides.
  • Step 8
    The new pads will come with little clips that help secure the pads in place. Look carefully at the clips as they come out by hand, and match the new ones (that come with the pads) accordingly. The 2nd shot shows a new clip peeking out from the near side of the carrier.
  • Step 9
    If the carrier can\’t move freely back and forth, uneven pad wear can result. The pads should come with a tiny tube of high temperature grease. Carefully ease back the boots from the slides, and grease both rails. There\’s 2 for each side of the car, so budget accordingly.
  • Step 10
    With the caliper moved aside and supported, the rotor comes right off by hand. In my case, it was not rusted solid in any way. A peek at the old rotor alongside for no reason. Make sure to use a good quality brake cleaner on the new rotors and do not touch it with your bare hands after cleaning.
  • Step 11
    The red/pink goo is Anti-Squeal, which when put on the back of the pad, can later prevent high pitch squealing. It takes a while to dry, so one might put a light coating on the pads before beginning…. The pad goes into the carrier, inside the channels defined by the clips, and up against the retracted piston.
  • Step 12
    The partner-pad also slips in fairly easily. It would angle around a bit trying to get it in right, but not enough to have to pick up a tool to tap it in. It\’s remarkable the ferocious heat and energy going through brakes, and it\’s all in there by hand.
  • Step 13
    With the two 3/16\’ bolts back in, it\’s DONE! You might choose a smidge of anti-seize on the 3/16\’ bolts, so that they\’ll come off next time. The other side of the car is done the same way of course. DON\’T FORGET TO CLOSE UP YOUR BRAKE FLUID RESEVOIR! After the car is safely lowered and you start it up, the brake pedal will go the floor several times as the system pressurizes. You\’ll hear a noticeable clicking from the pedal. This is the \’Apply brake to shift\’ mechanism. It will settle down as the brake pedal firms up. It took about 5 or 6 slow/gentle applications
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